Clattering, clanging and crashing its way
through Chinatown, the chaotic and mesmerising Lion Dance was my first
experience of London’s Chinese New Year celebrations. As I joined the crush of people
penguin-walking towards the source of the commotion, I notices the tens of
street stalls set up especially for the occasion either side of the street.
Amongst the trinkets and ready-to-eat whole
ducks, my inner 6-year-old jumped for joy at the sight of miniature
fire-crackers. By the time I had gleefully picked up a packet, the Lion Dance
had travelled up the street to directly in front of where I was standing.
It was an incredible spectacle. Two Dragon-Lions,
each made up of two people (a front and a back) with a large, draped,
glittering costume over them leaped high and crouched low as the Dragon’s jaws
opened and closed, attempting at one point to playfully devour an unsuspecting
bystander. Stood behind the dragons was the percussion band entourage, armed
with cymbals of all shapes and sizes, producing an exciting cacophonous sound.
As the procession moved on and I pressed
through the crowd, I began to make my way towards Trafalgar Square. On arrival,
there were yet more stalls, tents and trinkets with a large stage set up next
to Nelson’s column, nestled between two of the Great British Lions. There were
a number of acts through the day, many of whom travelled from China. The
performance as I arrived was a Chinese Opera singer’s rendition of ‘O Solo
Mio’, and I was immediately shocked by the power and volume coming out of his
slight, circa 5’8” stature!
After enjoying the performance, lunch was
next on the agenda. It took some time wandering around in the 0˚c temperatures
before finding a Korean bistro on the edges of Chinatown. It is worth noting
that the streets of Central Chinatown (around Denmark Street) are filled with
people at Chinese New Year and there is an absolute minimum ½ hour wait to get
in. My plan for next year will involve booking a table at one of the
restaurants closer to the edge of Chinatown, or arriving better wrapped up with
the expectation of the wait…
After a late lunch, we headed back towards
Trafalgar Square to watch the closing ceremony. The high-pitched warbling of
the Chinese singer carried across Trafalgar Square and beyond as I arrived and
although perhaps not what I would choose to listen to was undoubtedly
interesting.
The finale of the New Year’s celebrations
comprised a fantastic acrobatics, dance and lighting display. Two sturdy
flag-bearers were raised up on platforms either side of the stage whilst
performers delivered a Kung-Fu inspired dance to rousing music and impressive
visuals on the screens either side of the stage before the Year of the dragon
was finally ushered in with a short firework display.
I will plan my day slightly differently
next year, arriving earlier, booking a lunch for around 14:00 and truing to
pick up the Lion Dancers, the highlight for me, from the start of their
procession but I will undoubtedly be going back!
Were you at the Chinese New Year
celebrations in London or elsewhere across the Globe? What were your
highlights?